Fabrics and materials are all around us. Fabrics are used to make clothing, bedding, upholstery, towels, and countless other everyday items. Fabrics and materials are also used extensively in crafts, hobbies, DIY home decor projects, and many other fun activities. Fabrics and materials can be made from natural or synthetic materials. Natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, and hemp come from plants and animals. Synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, and spandex are human-made. Blended fibers such as polycotton (polyester-cotton) or spandex-cotton are made from a mix of natural and synthetic fibers. Fabrics and materials can be made from a single type of fiber or a blend of different fibers. Most fabrics are woven or knitted. Woven fabrics such as denim, gauze, and canvas are made by interlacing two sets of threads at right angles to each other. The threads running east-west are called the “warp.” The threads running north-south are called the “weft” or “woof.” Knit fabrics such as t-shirts, socks, and sweaters are made by looping threads together with a needle. Non-woven fabrics such as felt and paper are made by matting, condensing, and pressing fibers together. Fabrics and materials can also be referred to as textiles or cloths. When shopping for clothing, bedding, or other items, you may see fabric content labels on the items. The care label tells you how to wash and dry the item. The fabric content label tells you what the item is made of. The fabric content label may be printed directly on the care label or may be on a separate label. For items with multiple components such as a shirt with buttons or a comforter with batting, there may be more than one fabric content label. The fabric content label shows the fiber breakdown of each component. In the USA, the Federal Trade Commission requires clothing and textile products to have a fabric content label. This label tells consumers what fibers the item is made of. Fabrics and materials have different properties such as breathability, moisture-wicking ability, warmth, softness, durability, drape, wrinkle resistance, eco-friendliness, affordability, and colorfastness. Understanding fabrics and materials helps you choose the right ones for your needs.
Fabric and material knowledge is a crucial piece of learning to do textile work. Fabrics all act differently and understanding what they’re made of, the texture, and how they’ll hold up to being used and washed will help you, as a beginner, to make smart decisions and avoid rookie errors. Knowing your fabrics inside and out is empowering and will enhance every project you do.
So what is fabric actually made of?
Fabrics are materials made from fibers that are woven, knitted or bonded together. Strength, softness, flexibility and durability depend on the fiber. There are three basic types: natural, synthetic and blended.
Cotton, silk, and wool are the most common natural fabrics. These materials can vary significantly in their level of sustainability. For example, organic cotton is more sustainable than non-organic cotton. Silk production, however, has a low environmental impact, and a fabric like peace silk is very eco-friendly. The same is true for wool: recycled wool is a good choice. In addition, the type of animal the wool comes from is also important. Alpaca wool, for instance, is a sustainable option.
These fabrics are sourced from plants and animals and known for their comfort and breathability. Cotton: One of the most popular fabrics used for garments. It is soft, easy to manipulate, and perfect for newbies. Linen: Long-lasting, cooling, and comfortable. Unfortunately, it creases easily. Wool: Insulating, resilient, and offers elasticity. Silk: Lustrous, smooth, and lustrous, but a bit delicate.
Faux Fabrics
These man-made fibers are produced by chemical means and are valued for their durability and resilience. You probably encounter polyester quite frequently because it retains its shape and holds onto dye. Another common synthetic fiber is nylon, which is both lightweight and strong. Acrylic is designed to feel like wool. Working with synthetic fibers may require different tools and methods due to their stretchiness and texture.
Fabric Blends
Blends are a mix of natural and synthetic fibers, offering the best of both worlds. A cotton-poly blend, for instance, may resist wrinkles and retain the breathability of cotton. You’ll find a lot of blends in the fabrics you use every day, and they can be a great option for those new to sewing.
Fabric – Weaves and Knits
The way that fibers are used to create the fabric also influences both its appearance and the ways in which it can be used. For example, woven fabrics have a very stable weave, which makes them easy to cut and sew. Knit fabrics, on the other hand, are far more pliable but may need a bit more manipulation. Knowing whether a fabric is a knit or a weave can help you choose the right technique and the right notions for your project.
The density and feel of the material
Fabric weight: The weight of a fabric determines how it will hang and hold its shape. Use lightweight fabrics for more intricate, finer projects and heavier fabrics for garments that require more stability. Fabric texture: The texture of a fabric will impact both the visual appeal and the feel of the garment. Smooth fabrics will create a crisp, smooth silhouette while textured fabrics add depth and dimension.
Stretch and Stability
Some fabrics are stretchy and others aren’t. The degree of stretch will influence how the fabric responds when you cut and sew it. If you’re a new sewer, it’s a good idea to consider the stretch of the fabric and select projects that are compatible with that stretch. Otherwise, you risk the fabric becoming misshapen or otherwise unsatisfactory.
Taking Care of Your Fabric
Knowing the care is also important. Certain fabrics can only be washed in cold water or may need to be dry cleaned, others are much more durable. Keeping the care in mind will help you to make sure your finished item will still be usable in the long run.
Choosing the Right Fabric for the Job
For a given project, using the right fabric will help you achieve better results and have more fun. When you want to make a home decor item, a garment, or a functional item, you need to use a fabric that has the right characteristics. By selecting the fabric that is right for your project, you will save time and avoid many headaches.
Working With and Sampling the Fabric
The reason for working with fabric and running some tests before embarking on a project is to understand the fabric. To stretch it, fold it, wash it, and find out how it reacts to these actions. As a beginner you might need to tweak your techniques and tools, and it is easier to do this on test swatches than on finished garments.
The Most Common Mistakes Made in Working with Fabrics
When we first start sewing, we focus on what the fabric looks like and forget to consider how it’s made or how it needs to be treated. The wrong needle or thread can ruin the fabric. But if we take the time to educate ourselves on what to look for in fabrics, we can prevent those issues and achieve better outcomes.
A Learning Curve for Building Envelope Design
The more you work with fabric, the more you’ll learn about it. You can always note how it acts when you cut it, sew it, wash it, etc. Take swatches, make a note on a card. This will help with projects later.
Knowing Your Fabric Inside and Out
When you have a good grasp on what different types of fabrics and materials are, you can stop making educated guesses and start making educated decisions. As a beginner, being able to identify fibers, structures and how to care for them will make you a more effective fabric shopper and ultimately a better crafter.